Thursday, January 16, 2014

Koh Lanta

We’ve never been to Thailand! There is a lot about the country for us to learn. We know to begin our trip slowly. So we make our first stop a beach. The islands of Thailand tend to be very touristy and magnets for constant partying. We want quiet, beach time and simplicity. After reading and talking with friends we decide to make our first stop Koh Lanta.
The island of Koh Lanta is a slow, laid back island in the province of Krabi. A one-hour ferry ride from Phi Phi, Koh Lanta has a wild natural ambiance with warm white beaches. The views are spectacular in every direction. Which area of the island you choose will make a difference to the social vibe you’ll experience. Koh Lanta has it all. And it’s a perfect place for recouping energy after grueling travel and recovering from a bad chest infection.
Our home for the week is a basic hut with a thatched roof. The walls are made from tightly woven straw. We are about 200 feet from the water. With restaurants, bars, massage spas and entertainment, there is nothing we lack here! Next door is a very large 5 star resort and spa, the kind that we too, used to stay in when we had 2-3 weeks holiday each year. On the beaches, everybody looks the same.
I’ve been here such a short time, and I’ve been pretty under the weather, but there are several things about Thailand I’m noticing.
The relationship between Muslim and Buddhist cultures here in the south is interesting. The vibe is comfortable and respectful. There is a mix of cultural background, Buddhist, Muslim and Sea Gypsy. Each retains its own practices while living harmoniously side by side. Yesterday when I ordered my eggs, I specifically asked for no bacon. “Bacon!” exclaimed the server. “We are Muslim here. There is no bacon.”  In the next door 5 star resort, Paul and I wander through the grounds and notice the statues of Ganesh and Lakshmi scattered around the area. These are representations of Hindu deities. As we travel further south, a more Native Thai vibe is apparent with fewer and fewer westerners.
Most of the people here, it seems, subsist because of the tourist business. They seem to love what they do and are completely devoted to their jobs. I’m not sure about how I feel when I notice that tourists outnumber residents. There just seems to be something unnatural about one’s country being dominated by ‘guests’. As Paul and I venture out on our scooter, we see that actually, many of the residents earn a living by farming, fishing or working on rubber plantations.      

The topography is wild. Banana, rubber and coconut trees crowd the grounds of the rugged mountains and tropical forests that line the sides of the one road that circles the island. The gravel and sand beaches meet crystal clear warm waters of the Pacific. The ocean offers a perfect swim! Once we get healthy enough, our next stop is Phi Phi Island. Paul and intend to dive there. We hear the coral and sea life is incredibly special and unique!
I am surprised about the absence of spirituality in the atmosphere. People have often said about Thailand, “It’s just like India, but it works”. I thought I knew what that meant, but I don’t anymore. I don’t find it at all like India. Everywhere in India I feel spirit. Here I feel none of it so far. I suppose as we venture away from the islands, ‘real’ living will be more present.
My first thought about coming to Thailand happened a few years ago as I was lying on a beach in British Columbia. I overheard two young teenagers talking. “But what do you do in Thailand?” one of them said to the other. “What do you mean?” her friend answered. “You hang out on the beach and eat Thai food!” Yep….that’s what I’m noticing so far. I’m guessing there’s probably more than that!

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