Peddling

While we’re in Fort Cochin, we have our own bicycles for getting around. We’ve been borrowing bikes from our Yoga teacher’s kids so we don’t even have to rent. We invested in repairing one of the bikes, so we could leave them a usable bike when we are finished with it. I would rent if we didn’t have Sajee, because there is no better way to get around. The village is not very big, but having a bike gives us the chance to cover a lot of ground in a short period of time. It helps us to feel open and gives us a sense of freedom to explore.

I peddle vigorously down narrow, bumpy roads passing pedestrians strolling leisurely along the way. I’m more able to experience different places. Occasionally I pause somewhere to talk to shopkeepers or enter a church where puja is taking place.

I’m never afraid of getting lost on my bike. In fact, getting lost is half the fun. Each road looks the same, and with the absence of numbers on the houses and limited street signs, it is inevitable. Getting lost gives me opportunity to ask for directions. Often, as I ride, I shout to a person on the street, “Palace Road…this way?”, Usually, this results in an outstretched arm indicating the right direction and a friendly, “This way, this way. Go straight.”

On my bike I pass the busy markets, sometimes stopping for a freshly made pakora or warm samosa. The masala chai tea maker is an artist in his field. The tea is delicious and he chants proudly as he pours the tea midair in a long stream from cup to cup, before he hands it to me for drinking. What a joy!

Waterways of all sizes…. small ponds, lakes, and streams are all a part of the scenery as I ride. And the Arabian Sea borders the entire area. Occasionally, green parks with old monumental trees offer a reprieve from the concrete buildings. Football and cricket games are usually in action, and people finding shade are, seeking rest from their busy workdays.

Kerala is known for its extremely high literacy rates (97%). I can’t even count the number of schools I see along the roads…everywhere! And they’re all full. I can hear the singing and the choral reading going on in the primary classrooms. The senior schools don’t sound much different. It sounds like the students are having fun, playing music, interacting with each other, and finding learning in their play. On my bicycle I hear it all as I pass.

There is nothing so wonderful as an early morning ride along the shores of the Arabian Sea. Fort Cochin is known for its fishing boats, and in the mornings, it is typical to see the nets being hauled in. Strangely enough, I have rarely seen fish in the nets. More obvious are the plastic water bottles and garbage that is thoughtlessly thrown into the waters. We have heard, lately, that fishermen are paid by the government to go through the motions of hauling in the nets to appeal to the many tourists who visit the village.

Undoubtedly though, fresh fish is everywhere in the restaurants. One of my favourite places is a small outside kitchen called Maxim’s. There, the grilled calamari is deliciously seasoned with Kerala spices and perfectly grilled just to a touch of brown. That, with frites and a fresh veggie salad, and a ginger soda is satisfying and delectable. All for (about) $6.00.

 

Villagers here are eager to help. They do so with a broad, friendly smile, and a typical shake of the head. People are the commodity in India, and in Kerala most people are extraordinarily welcoming and helpful.

We have discovered an old man, dressed in a scant dhoti and bare chest. He repairs and builds bicycles in his small cluttered booth hidden in a tiny space in a wall of a building. Though he doesn’t speak English at all, it seems easy to communicate with him, and several times he has come to our rescue and fixed our bike. Whether it is refilling the air in our tires or reconnecting one side of a handlebar, Rajan helps us feel secure that our borrowed and very useful vehicles are safe.

I am thinking about Rajan tonight as we decide on a place to eat our dinner. Paul’s bicycle is in his shop once again. We are limited to walking. Our choices are diminished. Thank goodness we’ll have his bike back soon, leading again to boundless opportunities in Fort Cochin.