Thoughts of Cochin

I have been learning how to eat with my fingers. Some who know me already know that I often eat with without cutlery anyway. I usually lift the bowl to sip my soup. I prefer picking up chicken and sticking the whole thing in mouth. At the very least, I usually go to work with chopsticks for my salad, or rice dishes.

At our Yoga dinners I eat everything with my fingers. In India, protocol identifies the right hand for eating. The left hand is supposed to be saved exclusively for toilet functions. That leaves the right hand clean and free for eating and for shaking hands with others.

I’m struggling with the fact that we have begun to plan our next move. Fort Cochin is a very special place. I can’t quite put my finger on it. Yes….the people are friendly, and loving, and welcoming. The neighbourhoods are colonial and quaint. The architecture is interesting, diverse and useful. We have found our place here between the Ayurvedic healing and incredible Yoga practice. We have made many friends here with whom we will undoubtedly remain in touch. And, I suppose there are many places in the world where I have been that I can say the same.

But there is something different about Cochin. Paul and I talked about it a bit today and here is what I think….

The foundation of Indian culture is grounded in a universal respect. The Hindu mentality relies almost exclusively on unconditional love; for oneself, for community, for nature, and ultimately, for the universe. It is a spiritual purity that drives daily life. Prayer is everywhere. Joy for life is evident while walking in the streets, hanging out on the curb sides, in the shops and markets, in homes and in schools.

The other day Paul and I were eating at a restaurant. Across the street was an elementary school and throughout the entire lunch we could hear the voices of little children singing, playing musical instruments, laughing, and reciting together. The joy of the children was oozing out of the classroom windows on to the street andthe school yard was a buzz with gorgeous little people (all girls) in simple dark blue and light blue uniforms playing together. We were overwhelmed!

As we left the restaurant, the sounds of musical instruments and children’s’ voices continued even as we passed in front of the high school section of the school. From there we could also hear noise, or what I would call ‘meaningful chatter’. It made me think of how in Canada there is so much effort to make our students sit quietly, “Don’t look at anybody else’s paper.”, “Cover your work when you’re done.” “Sit up straight.” “No talking.” “Mind your own business.” “No cheating.”

Here, it seems there is an emphasis to encourage interaction, play and cooperation. There is obvious joy, playfulness and happiness to be in school. Each time we passed a school, we experienced the same.

Today, I decided to visit some of the schools. Most of them here are religious based although children of all religions attend. Several are Catholic. One is Muslim.

I donned a short sleeve shirt and skirt and rode my bicycle from school to school (3 in all) just to share my admiration for their system with the teachers and principals. It was such a great time! Everybody I met was so appreciative of my coming in. Each wanted to know more and shared gratitude for my taking the time. The kids were the most amazing. At one school, I needed help to get through the crowds of young girls who wanted to shake my hand and talk. Again….a welcoming and friendly place! What a great place to work! What a great place to learn! With about 62 kids in each class, and several classes for each level, I can’t even imagine where all these kids live! There are just so many of them!!!

I had my last massage with Saraswathi today. We will definitely keep in touch. I think she’s about 25 years old and has a 12 year old son and a nine-year daughter. Marriages here are usually arranged and the bride and groom meet at the alter for the first time. Maybe it’s my western bias, but I seem to detect an imbedded sadness in Saraswathiy, evidenced by her curiosity and unending questions about Paul’s and my relationship. Today I found out that “Sweety” in Malayalam is muthea and “darling” is chakkara. I definitely feel a sense of camaraderie with her and I look forward to more times together in the future.

The Doctor, Sveedener, is a wonderful character with whom I have also bonded. She invited us to stay with her the next time we come. I wouldn’t be surprised if we take her up on it. I could absolutely picture us coming here for a month to focus on intensive Yoga, Ayurveda and work. Maybe even sooner rather than later.