Antigua

Old is beautiful

Antigua means antique. There is a charm in the narrow streets represented by the simple architecture highlighted by deep bevelled window frames and wrought iron coverings. Cement and stucco facades on buildings are painted in various colours. Like Guatemala City, doorways are barricaded with gate locks protecting beautifully natural courtyards and welcoming restaurants and cafes.  The Spanish colonialism, Baroque architecture and vibrant life, surrounded by 3 awesome volcanoes, lend a humbling attitude that can be felt in the streets.

For 3 full days we walked the streets of the city. From early morning until late at night, music played in various areas. The centre of the city, Parque Central, bustled always, with buskers performing music, sometimes Latin-influenced and often western. Clowns, magicians, mime artists, fire jugglers were scattered through the streets. Crowds of people watch at each stop. The narrow cobblestoned roads were busy with pedestrians and spectators, and, occasionally, we needed to squeeze our way through. Sometimes we had to climb high sidewalk curbs to avoid the cars slowly making their way through the streets.

Paul and I have passed through Antigua several times on our way to Guatemala City. The city looked so interesting and we were eager to plan time to be there. On Friday morning, we began our trip, which includes the adventurous ride through the highlands of Lake Atitlan. Navigating the narrow roads and switchback turns of the mountains is definitely a trip! I counted 18 separate switchbacks in the first hour of our trip! The views are spectacular and the relief of making it to “Kilometre 148” finally arrived. Two friends were with us, Maalaa from Gabriola, and Susan from Toronto.

We took a fantastic 3-hour walking tour on Saturday morning and learned so much about the city. On that day, too, there was a human chain making its way up Agua, one of the 3 volcanoes surrounding the city. I wanted to be on that chain. Volcanoes have become my new comfort provider. I have been living surrounded by volcanoes since early December and now, I don’t like to leave the protective, comforting feeling.

love those windows!

We ate some good typico food in the restaurants and one night Paul sat down at a piano and accompanied a local accordionist. There was music everywhere… in the streets as well as in cafes and restaurants. The city is an attraction for travellers from all over the world offering great restaurants, vibrant nightlife, cultural events and daytime festivities.

narrow, cobblestoned....old

The churches, shops and restaurants that line the neatly cobbled streets are Baroque-style colonial buildings. Many of the buildings look very old and are obviously remnants from structures that were destroyed in the various earthquakes that eventually made it necessary to give up on Antigua being the capital of the country. After the big, most destructive earthquake in the 1700’s, the government changed locations to Guatemala City. But the old buildings are truly beautiful with old concrete foundations surrounding natural growth courtyards and romantic pathways.

The one thing that haunts me everywhere in Guatemala is the lack of educational excellence. Money issues and a lack of leadership and organization make it almost impossible to gather children from the various villages and encourage them to attend. I have never met a parent who doesn’t want his/her child to go to school. Even though public education is ‘free’, children without shoes can’t make their way there, and, besides, there are extra expenses that make their attendance impossible. Charges for supplies, the need for book bags and pencils and notebooks, lack of food, all contribute to the challenges of public learning. To me it just seems so fundamental. Breakfast and lunch programs, free school supplies, a general insistence on education are all so easy with limited effort. Too many families prefer having their young boys helping in the fields than have them attend the local school. I don’t understand.

In Antigua children line the streets selling simple wares and sheepishly beg for sales. Colourfully dressed in typical Mayan costumes they approach me constantly with beaded necklaces draped over their delicate arms, or intricately woven cloths. I would love to buy them all, but I don’t. I can’t help but think, “Why are these gorgeous smart and energetic children not in school?” I know I am thinking from a western perspective. It is hard to open up and think differently.

Our weekend was great. We played in this fantastic city, spending time with our friends Maalaa and Susan. We shopped, ate, walked, learned, laughed and played. And, by the end of Sunday, we were safely back in our paradise on the Lake. Life is good!

Eating, drinking, laughing!