San Cristobal De Las Casas

There is music playing in the courtyard. It is joyful and loud. The cathedral is packed and the crowd of young people dressed in white gowns and wearing flower corsages are lined up outside the cathedral doors.

First communion (an interesting
blend of Catholic and Mayan culture)

At first we thought it was a wedding. Somehow Paul and I seem to happen upon weddings wherever we are, but after some explanation I learn that it is actually a ceremony for first communion.

In San Cristobal, it is challenging to find people who speak English. My Spanish is very weak, but with some Spanish and some English I begin to understand what’s going on. The priest comes out to invite all the participants in to the church. As the music continues, families, extended families and friends of the 14 year olds enter the church for the ceremony.  I don’t know a lot about communion but I do know it’s for children and in order to receive communion one must be free of sin. The concept of ‘sin’ perplexes me even in the simplest idea. Of course children are free of sin! Does communion protect them forever? Or maybe it just supports them to as they learn how to prevent themselves from giving in to sin as they grow up, grounding them to the idea of being (and doing) good. It seems that becomes more challenging as we grow, and, of course, depends on where we live and the influences around us.

Carless streets of San Cristobal

Paul and I refrain from entering, choosing to experience the warmth of the sun as it moves in and out during the rest of the afternoon.  It is quite cool in San Cristobal, mostly because we are over 2000 metres above sea level. That’s pretty high up and the air is quite thin.

It is a different vibe from any other place I’ve been in Mexico. There are many artisans here and a large population of Mayan residents. The artistic contribution from the Mayan culture enhances the presence of art products that are for sale in the many vibrant and busy markets that occupy the streets in San Cristobal.

That's me and Franscico

People here are simply genuine. I spent a long time with Francisco this morning as he meticulously connected the broken chains of my Indian ankle bracelet that needed repair. As he handed it back to me I asked “Cuanto?” (How much?) Francisco waved his hand making it clear that he didn’t want anything for his labour. Instead I purchased one of his hand made silver bracelets for my little cousin in Los Angeles.

The markets in San Cristobal are what enrich the area. Handmade items can be found at almost every stall crammed into the market aisles. Colourful Mayan weaves are meticulously created into handbags, shawls, jackets, blankets and clothing. Colour is everywhere. Young children walk around selling small items of braided bracelets and woven cloths beseeching travellers to buy their goods. Anywhere I look is bursting with colour.  I am amazed at how people survive. Each merchant sells the same things. How do they maintain income?

A great way to travel!

Paul and I decide to experience horseback riding one morning. We enter the village of Chamula on horseback. Chamula is a small village centred on the San Juan church. I’ve heard that it is one of the oldest churches in all of Mexico and was reclaimed by the indigenous community in 1968.  Ritual ceremonies, involving sacrificial chickens and eggs happen daily. The mix of Christian and Mayan ideology is translated into practice with the help of shamans. Pine needles covering the grounds of the church reinforce the Mayan belief that nature is energy and energy is nature. The balance between the two determines ultimate health. With shaman support, sick people are guided towards a place of health.

The oldest church in Mexico

Paul and I didn’t enter the cathedral, but if we had, there is a possibility we would have witnessed various families in different parts of the pew-less cathedral floor, experiencing ceremonial practices for healing and creating a more balanced energy for each family member. Passing a live whole chicken and chicken eggs over the ailing person’s body is said to remove the curses and dispel bad spirits that are causing the disease. The patient is then advised to take the chicken home where it will die in time. Sometimes the shaman even suggests that the patient cook the chicken and feed it to someone who he or she does not like.

  

I bought a gorgeous woolen
Poncho for my friend Jill
from these women

What is interesting to me is the mix of Mayan and Christian practice and the attempt for a people to reclaim practice and theology after being indoctrinated and manipulated into other ways. I am loving learning more about indigenous practice and experiencing new ways of connecting to a spiritual world. San Cristobal is an ideal place for that!