Belize- Moving Towards Canada

In 1994 Paul and I were scuba diving in Cozumel Mexico. On our way out, while waiting in the airport, we met someone who was just coming from Belize. He told us, “Belize has the best scuba diving in the world!” Since then we’ve wanted to come and, enroute from Guatemala to Mexico, we decided to make it happen.

As we walked ourselves over the Guatemala/Belize border, I asked a woman to snap our photograph. I chose this particular woman because she seemed to speak clear English. Not being familiar at all with Belizean culture, I assumed this woman was Western, of African American descent. I later realized that she is clearly Belizean!

There are several things that are surprising to me about Belize. I knew the country was English speaking, but quite honestly I hadn’t realized that English was the first language here. Actually, it’s a different dialect than what I’m used to, and I find this form of English (Creole) even more difficult to understand than Spanish. Here, is the only English speaking country in Central America. In fact, Belize used to be named British Honduras until receiving independence in 1981. I find it a little weird here.

Caye Caulker is the Island where most of the great reefs exist, so, after crossing the border, we begin to slowly make our way. First stop is to visit a friend in San Ignacio. Sarah is the sister of our son, Philip’s, partner, Karen. It was great to meet Sarah and spend the time with her, eating a couple of meals together and seeing some of the sights of her little city. We stayed right ‘downtown’ which, I’d have to say seemed a bit depressed. Shanty shacks and roadside tables, occupied by (somewhat) miserable looking people, contributed to the lazy, dragged out feel of the town. Apparently, next week the place rocks with a major canoe race, La Ruta Maya. The annual Belize Endurance Canoe race is the longest race of its kind in Central America featuring 170 miles of paddling on the Belize River over the course of 4 days. Otherwise, however, we wonder why anyone would choose to be here!

The ferry from San Ignacio brings us directly to Caye Caulker. We arrive by mid afternoon and quickly began our pursuit for comfortable lodging. We find an affordable small shack on the beach, and grab it. Unfortunately, we forget to check for some basics (like hot water and a mirror) It’s probably the funkiest accommodation we’ve had since our trip began. The best part is that it’s on the beach, and, the worst part is that it’s on the beach. The winds are so gusty and fierce that it kept us awake all night. And…when we went for our 9:00 scuba dive, we discover it is cancelled due to winds. We weren’t surprised…. disappointed, but not surprised.

The Pacific waters are clear and blue and the beaches here are not beautiful. In fact, there are no beaches, per say. Some hotels built long docks where people can dive into the water. They have arranged a chair or two on the docks where people stay and relax, but, generally, there is no beach space.I think that’s a little strange. Caye Caulker is a resort area, and yet, there is no beach space? I suppose most people come here for diving or snorkeling.

We rented two bicycles for the 3 days we’re here and have traversed the entire island before lunch. The low, lush growth of jungle plants and old palm trees cover the land. Houses are simple and shanty like, and, as we ride further out from the tourist area we find huge, empty houses, many of which are for sale, along the water. The ‘strip’ offers resorts and restaurants…nothing fancy, and, if we ride off the beaten tracks we find simple, and delicious places to eat and hang out. The people, mostly Caribbean descendents, are friendly yet reserved, and helpful. They respond to our smiling greetings, although they don’t usually initiate. Most people come here for vacationing, which includes lots of drinking and partying. It’s not necessarily our style, but we’re here for the snorkeling and scuba diving, so we end up doing our own thing.

 

We are definitely in a ‘returning to Canada’ mind frame. Belize is our last stop before making our way back to Cancun for our flight to New York to visit friends and family, pick up our car and begin our ride back to Canada. Our time in Toronto will be all about work, and friends. I am excited about facilitating a 3-day workshop with a group of teacher candidates from various universities and connecting with the various organizations with whom I work. Then we begin our drive across the country to set up our new/old home on Gabriola...for now!