The Holy City

Shiva Temple at Banaras University

Om Nama Shivaya!

How can I even begin to understand the devotional integrity of the Hindu people? Ingrained in their very being, it seems, is the devout connection with God. It is expressed everywhere in the country, evident on the busy streets of the cities and in the little laneways of the villages. Farmers stop while reaping their crops, to pray. Deities are found throughout and people stop to connect with God regularly during the day.

The Shiva Temple lies in the midst of Banaras Hindu University in Varanasi. Here there are many rooms that provide opportunity for ritual and prayer.

I sit back on a small carpet against a wall on the floor to observe the devotees enter the small pooja room. They ring the bell that hangs from the threshold as they enter. Then they place their hands together at their heart as they bow their heads in reverence. In a sort of processional, each person walks slowly around the deity platform several times until they make personal contact with the priest who places a red bindi on the forehead of each person. Sometimes participants bring offerings of garlands of flowers. Coconuts, spices, grapes are all gifts for the Gods.

I watch with utmost respect and curiosity. “How many times does each person walk around? What is the significance of each gift to the gods?  What do the various colours represent?”

The priest notices me in the background and he beckons me to come closer. Without a word, he puts his finger in red ash and places a bindi on my forehead. He throws a garland of marigolds around my neck.  I feel a deep sense of welcome and acceptance. He wants to answer all my questions.

The Temple stands in the middle of the university and many students are hanging out on the grounds, studying, doing homework and gathering together in small groups. Mind, body and spirit are tightly integrated here, and I sense that.  Even as I write, several people approach me and ask, “What are you doing?’ “I’m writing,” I answer. “Trying to understand”. “Understand what” some of them ask. “I’m trying to understand what’s in my heart.”

The Ganges after dark

The Durga Temple, just a few kilometres away, offers a whole other experience. Loud bells clanging, numerous smoke pits burning and incense present everywhere, it offers a quite intense sensory experience. Here there is more activity… more movement. It reflects, to some degree, the character of Durga; active destroyer of evil, represented with 6 arms and the colour black. I am guided by a slight Hindi woman who offers me her elbow and wants to show me here world of prayer. I am once again immersed in another world. She and I speak for a while. She tells me she feels so comfortable here, in prayer, amidst the hectic activity of the temple.

Peaceful Paddle on The Ganges

The Ganges is a holy water and holy things happen here too. Raj takes us out in his rowboat so that we can participate in the sunset ceremony at the shore of the (Shiva) Temple. The Arti ceremony offers classical music, elaborate costume and devotional chanting. Boats pack into the shore and people crowd the shoreline to watch and listen.

Paul and I light a candle that is placed in the middle of a garland of flowers. We say a prayer and carefully place the small tray in the flowing Ganges. “What did you pray for”? Paul asks me when we are done. “I prayed for peace in my family”. I answer. “Me too!” he says.

These are the final days of Kumbha Mela, a festival that occurs every 3 years, this year in Allahabad, in Uttar Prudesh. The Naga Babas have come to Varanasi to camp out, smoke chillum, and invite visitors into their small tents to share their beliefs and life style choices. They remain here until Sunday, when the festival of Shivarathri happens. For me, it’s a bit intense. Men’s naked bodies, rubbed completely with ash that is supposed to remind us of the ashes of Lord Shiva. I wonder, “How come it’s okay for these men to be parading around naked, and it’s not okay for a woman to expose even her head?”  I am definitely having problems with the gender issues that are evident here.

Naga Babbas Camping Out

The Naga Baba scene reminds me of my annual Bonnaroo festival in Manchester Tennessee, just without the music. Freaks, drugs and bizarre behaviours are completely acceptable here. I don’t really pick up the spiritual energy. It’s more like a show, and I’m a part of it.

Tall buildings, almost like a solid wall of concrete in various designs and colours comprise the architecture of the old city. They provide a solid backdrop to the sacred Ghats where Hindu people come to bathe and revel in the spirit of the holy waters. As we glide through the river I feel like player piece in a board game. The visual surroundings are a bit surreal, the motion of the paddling creates a dreamlike sensation, and the variety of sounds intensifies the experience. Varanasi… another world, indeed!

Raj our rower

Early morning on the Ganges