Jewish in Kochi

It’s Friday night and although there are two synagogues in the area of Kochi, they will both, no doubt, remain empty tonight. There are about 7 Jews left here! One of the historical things that make Kochi so special is that here, every expression of religion is represented. Over the centuries an accepting and peaceful co-existence has materialized. Hindu, Buddhist and Jain temples, Muslim mosques, Roman Catholic churches and Jewish synagogues stand side by side, each offering spiritual refuge to those who come to pray.

renovated in 1700's

The call of the muezzin inviting Muslims to prayer take turns with music beckoning worshippers for celebration in the temples. We hear the constant call. Interspersed with shops and homes simple pictures or statues of deities offer impromptu pooja to all Hindus who choose to pray. That’s what makes being here so wonderful for me!

The(hidden) synagogue

The synagogue in Fort Cochin is in Jewtown, just past Mattancherry outside of the main area of the town. The last time I attended an actual service there was 2 years ago. At that time there were 9 Jews left in the town, and they, along with travellers often combined to make enough for a minyan (10 people) for prayer. Today there are 3 Jews left in the city, and the synagogue is open for touring from Sunday to Friday. It is rare to experience services there anymore.

Today, Paul and I decide to check out the synagogue in Ernakulum, a 20-minute ferry ride from Fort Cochin. We knew there is no service because there is only one family left in the city. The father of that family is the caretaker of the building. We heard from a friend that if we find the right guy, in the right flower shop on the right street we might be lucky enough to go in.

Cochin Blossoms and Fish Shop

Ernakulum, like most cities in India is crazy busy. Travelling in to cities is not our favourite thing to do. By the time we arrived in Ernakulum, the heat of the day had peaked and the atmosphere seemed like it was simmering. It was hot. The streets were ridiculously crowded with markets and people shopping and selling and yelling. The synagogue, we knew is on Jews Street. This, in itself is a challenge for me…asking directions, “Excuse me. Where is Jew Street?” just doesn’t have a ‘politically correct’ ring to it. Neither does the location of the synagogue in Cochin…“Jewtown”. But that fact is, no one balks at our inquiries and with help, we are able to locate the building.

The synagogue is hidden one layer into the framework of the buildings that line the streets. Mr. Elias “Babu” Josephai, the caretaker, is the one who is working hard to refurbish the sanctuary that has become completely abandoned since it stopped being used. He is also the owner and main salesperson for the “Cochin Blossoms and Fish Shop” which provides an entranceway to the ancient building that lies beyond the back door.

Aron Hacodesh

Built in the 1200’s and then renovated in the early 1700’s, the synagogue is simple and lush. Cement walls enclose the area with an Aron Hacodesh in brilliant red with gold leaf paint with an ornate keter (crown) above the curtains behind which the Torah used to sit.

Wooden benches line up in front, on either side of the room. The actual prayer area is relatively intact from the 1700’s. There is room for about 100 to sit. I wonder how many times the seats filled.

Mr. Elias "Babu" Josephai

Mr. Elias “Babu” Josephai is busy hanging portable fans from the long nails protruding from the walls. The floor is in serious disrepair, and the roof is open in several areas. Elias tells us that he is redecorating slowly. And he feels confident about his progress. It is still not ready for use.

Elias is completely committed to redoing the building so that Jews from all over the world can come, maybe pray, and definitely learn about the Jewish heritage that existed in the area. All of his family is now in Israel, and Elias and his wife stay behind to continue the traditions of Indian Jewry.

Just a facade for what lies within

For me, being in India reminds me of Israel. India is the Mother country, with hundreds of thousands of Indians migrating to other parts of the world seeking freedom, prosperity and life style change in other lands. We Jews too, live in a Diaspora, away from our ‘Mother’ land, Israel. When I celebrate Jewish holidays or engage in Jewish ritual, I think of Jews throughout the world practicing the same as I do. When we travel, we often seek out the familiarity of synagogues to connect and relate more significantly to the culture of the area through our Jewish heritage. Indians living in a Diaspora, and those remaining here, understand what it’s like to be far from home. The welcoming and gracious reception we receive this evening certainly demonstrates that understanding and compassion as I have experienced throughout the region of Kochi.