Travelling in Guatemala

Our ride out

Our trek back to San Marcos this Saturday morning began with a short hike up the road to the nearest village, called Xix (pronounced Sheesh!). Supposedly there is a bus that comes three times a day. Ordinarily, we are told, the bus stops at the top of the hill, honks loudly, and waits there for about 10 minutes waiting for passengers. When hours go by without any sign of the horn, Paul and I decide to walk up into the village. No bus arrives, so when we finally see a pickup truck passing, we wave it down and ask for a ride. For a mere 50 quetzals, the driver agrees to transport us to Nebaj where we make our next connection.

and in!

Our microbus from Nebaj to Santa Cruz has capacity for 17 people, including the driver. As we wind our way through the highlands of Nebaj, we stop periodically during the trip to let passengers on or off. For most of the trip there are 25 people of all ages and sizes in the mini bus, several of them standing up and bending over, struggling to stay off the laps of those of us lucky enough to have seats. The ticket taker hangs from a ladder on the back of the van.

Bags, suitcases, baskets and knapsacks tied to the top of the bus remain surprisingly secure. The steep, switchback roads cling to our bus and, fortunately, we cling back! We wind speedily through the beautiful lush highlands of Guatemala, passing through smatterings of homes and tiendas, greens, browns, and multicoloured fields. The occasional running river reminds me of Chiapas, Mexico.

Arriving in Santa Cruz, we dismount our microbus and board the waiting chicken bus to Chichicastenango (Chichi for short). This is my first experience on a chicken bus in Guatemala. When I was in Cyprus in the 1970’s I used to ride them all the time. In Cyprus, there were not only chickens, but also cows and pigs and birds of all sorts. I have never seen a chicken on a chicken bus in Guatemala. From the outside, they are as colourful and decorated as the buses in India, adorned carefully with signs of Jesus and reminders of God. No wonder, I think, “We need extra prayers with this driving!”

I am absolutely in love with the Guatemalan people! Mayan culture, alive everywhere we go, is evident in the variety of colours as well as in the language of welcome and friendship. Questions abound, and a sincere desire to know more about us is evident. “De donde tu?” (Where are you from?), “Que te haces aqui?” (What are you doing here?),  “Te gusta Guatemala?” (Do you like Guatemala?) A generous “Buenos diaz” comes with an animated smile and a wave of a hand, and sometimes even a glance back as we pass. It’s not at all like we heard before we came. “Be really careful.” Our family and friends warn us. “People are getting killed all over the country.” “Protect your belongings.” I know several people who would not come to Guatemala out of fear! Paul wrote a song a few years ago called I Won’t Live My Life in Fear. I’m so glad we don’t!

The music in the bus is always in Spanish. There is little attempt to anglicize songs. The words are almost always about love, and even when they’re not, it sounds like they are! I’m grateful for the blast of the radio. It helps cover up the loud shriek of the brakes as we descend the mountains. I feel the pull and the rattle and the extreme vibration of the brakes beginning with my feet and travelling through my whole body. I continue to pray that the brakes will last and I begin to wonder how the bus will manuever it’s way down these switchbacks without brakes! I am so relieved when we reach the base.

Night time in Chichi before the Market

Just splendid!

We spend the night in Chichi. Here is a world famous market open only twice a week. We’re not interested in buying as much as we are in the experience. We are told that arriving the night before the market is a trip. Mayan vendors arrive from around the country to sell their wares. They set up the night before and ‘live’ in their stall waiting for morning when the market opens. If you don’t get there early enough, the market gets so crowded you can hardly walk. We got there by 7:30 the next morning, and were finished by the time (especially Paul) began to feel claustrophobic. The bustle and the intense ‘buying’ that goes on there is amazing. There is nothing you can’t get at the market in Chichi! And Guatemalan merchandise is everywhere! We purchased some amazing deals!

Great bargains!

Outside the church during Mass

The church on the outside of the market holds Catholic Mass services early Sunday morning. I loved it! The Catholic practice is obvious, and the integration of Mayan ritual is woven in to the experience.  The first part of the Mass is held in Spanish, then another person breaks into Quiche to complete the service. Individual fire ceremonies, incense, and various shaman practises can be seen both inside and outside the walls of the church.

The shuttle back to our beautiful home on the lake was packed with travellers. The ride, uneventful, was full of conversation and fun. It is perfect being back now. We have less than two weeks left here on the lake and we are revelling in the prospect of just settling and appreciating where we are for now. I have some work at local schools, completion of my massage course, and I am continuing to immerse myself in Spanish. A beautiful connection with a local school is helping to create plans for returning to Guatemala for more work! Today we start to plan our trip back to Canada.

Our new friend!